10) Our last days in Panama

From Managua we took a flight with COPA airlines back to Panama City. When we arrived in Panama a problem occured: Franzi's luggage did not arrive in Panama. After more than 1h waiting they told us that the luggage has been forgotten in Nicaragua and they will send it with the next plane and would then bring it to our hotel by taxi. Franzi was first shocked, but after all it happened as promised^^ It then took us almost 3h to get into the city from the airport. We chose the wrong bus... we should have taken the airport express bus which does not stop everywhere. So we ended up hopping off the bus in the city, walked through a park and then entered a taxi in order to circumvent some traffic jam. We stayed at Hotel Centroamericano as we disliked the hostel we stayed at during our first visit. We then took a walk along the promenade. I like the look of skyscrapers at night. And by that time Panama City also has a christmas tree^^ we ended in Multicentro Mall where we had dinner.  The region's culinary variety is poor... at least the meat is good here :) Back at our hotel Franzi's luggage was already waiting for us.

view of Panama City's skyline at night is simply cool...

another christmas tree when temperature is above 25°C

pretty^^

The next day (6.12.) we asked at the reception for a good beach we could go to by bus for our last day in Panama. The receptionists recommended us to go to Playa Coronado. So we went to the bus station and took a bus towards Playa Coronado. We shopped some water and snacks at the shopping mall and took a small bus that was supposed to bring us to the beach. Quite surprised we were by an identity check - private only. Which means the area is only for people living there. Interesting tip we got there. So we went to the next free beach in San Carlos. We were the sole people there... beach and water was so so, but a good break from the city. When a storm approached we went back to Panama City, simply stopped one of the buses at the highway and hopped on. We were eager to go out in Panama City at least once to have some drinks and enjoy some music in a bar. On the way into the center we asked a few young girls - about 18 probably - if they could recommend a bar where people usually meet up for drinks and music that day. They were happy to tell us that the next McDonalds was straight in front of us... and yes, they were serious... that is the place to be in Panama... very telling :/ All in all, that day summarized our experience from Panama... many people there are not smart by our standards :P We then went to the Hard Rock Hotel, were happy to see an old Trabant in the building, enjoyed a drink and some music. On the way back some raccoons greeted us at the promenade^^

Trabant in Panama!

Raccoons greet us at the promenade at night.

The last day (7.12.) we went shopping at the Albrook Mall... new shirt and trousers for me, shirts and shoes for Franzi... quite successful :) As we didn't have a very good Bus experience we decided to take a taxi to the airport. All luggage arrived with us first in Amsterdam, where we saw a nice sunset at the airport and then followed us to Frankfurt without hassle. On the last flight the view from the plane was amazing! Back in Germany at 8.12. - Christmas time now combined with proper cold weather :P

sunset at Amsterdam Schiphol Airport

gorgeous sunset from our plane Amsterdam - Frankfurt

9) Granada and around - the region's cultural center

In Granada we struggled to find a good place to stay... 3 nights at 3 different places... the last one was good, the first two rather not^^ The first evening (02.12.) we walked around the cities Parque Central with Granada's landmark: the cathedral. Next to the cathedral stood a big christmas tree. The cathedral was so packed, that some people had to look and listen in front of the open gates. We enjoyed dinner at Calle La Calzada, which is the main tourist street starting near the cathedral. Later, the local people were going through the streets carrying a symbol of holy Marry from church to church - every evening another church. Interestingly, the people in Granada always lighted firecrackers after church^^ 

Granada's cathedral at night, including the christmas tree

A horse car in front of Iglesia de Guadalupe

Horse cars with phone company ads - somehow bizarre^^

The next day (03.12.) we visited the chocolate museum, walked through the city at daylight and enjoyed some icecream :D Strangely, the city is filled with horse cars that are fully painted with phone company ads :P At the afternoon we joined Leo Tours on a trip around the Granada Islands on lake Nicaragua. It was a great trip... the islands were pretty, although the water wasn't really in proper quality for swimming... some of the islands were private... one had monkeys on - much fun! We visited one of the local families and drank some Coco Loco (coconut water + rum^^). Besides the alcohol and our great guide, a lovely sunset made this trip awesome :) For dinner we tried some local food at Parque Central... can't really recommend that^^

Granada's market street

chilling at one of Granada's Islands

Monkey Island - a funny companion

lovely birds

and a sunset for me^^

give me more...

... coco loco!!! :D

The next day (4.12.) we viewed the city from atop Iglesia de la Merced and found the best bakery in town. At the evening we joined Leo Tours again for a trip to Volcano Massaya. There we were lucky to get a glimpse on lava within one of the active craters and enjoyed a great sunset. We also saw lots of bats and visited a cave made by lava, which was like being in a different world :D
The last day (5.12.) we bought some food from the great bakery before we left for Managua airport by taxi to fly back to Panama City.

view from Iglesia de San Francisco to Granada's cathedral

at the tower of Iglesia de la Merced

good views over the city :)

the air at Volcano Massaya was not the best^^

A king overviews his kingdom ... erm... the view from Volcano Massaya I intended to say :P

another great sunset :D

so romantic :)

like another world - a cave made by lava

8) Isla Ometepe

From Playa de Coco we went to Liberia to change bus for the Nicaraguan border where we took a bus to Managua but hopped off in Rivas. A short taxi ride brought us to the small harbor of San Jorge. There we started the worst over-water-travel I endured to that day. Our tiny wooden ferry was pushed around by the 1-3m waves. Probably due to bad distribution of its cargo, or maybe worse due to more severe problems, the ship leaned towards the right. When we crossed the large Nicaragua Lake towards Moyogalpa on Isla Ometepe, the boat made cracking sounds as it would break apart when hit by the next wave. Several people puked on the ride, while Franzi and I struggled not to join them.

One of the tiny wooden ferries crossing Lake Nicaragua

After we arrived on the island and gave our stomaches some time to settle, we took the local bus and hopped off at Hotel Finca Venecia. The hotel was very pleasant and we stayed for 2 nights. We jumped straight into the lake and enjoyed the sunset while having a swim :D

Swimming near the beach of Hotel Finca Venecia...

...while the sunset...

...romantic views^^

Later, we had dinner at Hostel Sinai and at first we were a little scared walking the streets at dark. However, the local people celebrated the fest of holy Mary, carrying her Icon from one altar to another. While doing so, everyone shot fireworks. We were especially scared when walking back to our hotel at night, when suddenly we heard something approaching us fast from the back. Just when our hearts beating fast and we popped up our flashlight, we saw two locals on a bicycle that greeted us and passed on to the hotel as well^^
The next day (01.12.) we rented two bicycles, although my ass still hurt from the bicycle ride to Playa Hermosa. I wanted to rent a motorbike in the first place, but Franzi cheered when she saw me suffering and thus insisted on a bicycle :P So with pain we started our ride - uphill ofcourse ;) Views of the two volcanoes were gorgeous and riding through the villages was fun (especially since this part was downhill^^). Next we went to Ojo de Agua, a lagoon supposed to contain water with healing capacities. Well, we expected a spring but it was a simple pool after all. Instead of healing, local people used it to wash. This place is not to be recommended! We continued to Play Santo Domingo that offers great views of the volcanoes. There we chilled at the beach before we went back to our hotel.

Franzi on Playa Santo Domingo in front of Volcano Maderas.

Luckily we just heard the next day that there are supposed to be large fresh water sharks in the lake which can be dangerous for human too^^ The next day we took the ferry back to San Jorge. After our bad experience, we made sure to catch one of the big ferries made of steel (this is a must! rather wait 2h and pay triple instead of taking the wooden ferry!). A taxi brought us to Rivas where we jumped on a bus to Managua, dropped off at Masaya where we took a taxi to Granada... (easier would have been to take the bus to Managua right from the pier ;))

Isla Ometepe. Volcano Concepcion (l) and Volcano Maderas (r)

7) Playa de Coco and Playa Hermosa

From Monteverde in the mountains we traveled to Playa de Coco at the Pacific Ocean to enjoy some beach time again :) At first, we were unlucky finding a place to stay. The places were either overrated or dirty backyards. Then, luckily a man approached us offering a short ride showing us his Apartmentos Silvestres. The friendly German, living there with his Costa Rican wife and his mother, offered us a great place. We were happy to book 2 nights straight. The beach of Playa de Coco is huge, but not the prettiest. Thus, the next day (28.11.) we explored Playa Ocotal in the west. Unfortunately, it was very stormy that morning and we couldn't enjoy the beach much although it was much prettier. We tramped back to Playa de Coco, walked along the beach, ate an american cheesecake *yummy* and walked to Playa Hermosa as we were advised by our hosts. Unfortunately, it was kind of a horror way to walk. Still, Playa Hermosa was awesome! A great sunset allowed us to make some cool pictures with the new waterproof camera Franzi bought before the holidays. For the way back, a nearby hotel arranged us a taxi. The next day (29.11.) we went again, this time by bicycle :) We went to Playa Panama which was not too nice either. So, we went to Playa Hermosa again and enjoyed some great waves. Using Franzi's new camera I made some cool pictures of Julio, a local surfer^^
The next day (30.11.) we traveled back to Liberia where we jumped on a bus towards Nicaragua.

Playa Ocotal

Cheesecake at Playa de Coco

Sunset at Playa Hermosa

Beautiful^^

Surfer Julio at Playa Hermosa

6) Monteverde and Santa Elena: Cloud Forest

At late afternoon (25.11.) we arrived in Monteverde and stayed at Hostel El Tucan, which is absolutely advisable ;) At the evening after our arrival we looked through the offered activities and packed our next day in Monteverde with various tours. A nice dinner and early sleep to be fit for the following day. In the morning we went to Santa Elena National Park where we met a friendly psychology student  from Germany. The cloud forest was amazing to watch. We even saw a hummingbird. Especially the flora is amazing with all the moss and fern on the trees. The views were epic when sunlight shined through the cloudy dust into the forest! We couldn't stay too long, as we had booked an extreme ziplining tour in the early afternoon. But hey, it was absolutely the right decision. 40 bucks for an awesome time. See the video for what it was about^^ I can highly recommend it, even if it appears very touristic!
Afterwards we gained back some strength with lunch, followed by one of the best coffees I drank until that day at Cafeteria Orchidieas and a sleep before we went on a night tour to see the jungle life during night. We were very lucky seeing two Armadillos, a Tamandua, a racoon, two tucans, various snakes, frogs and spiders :) It was a little too dark to take pictures of the moving animals, I have some of the sleeping ones though^^
The next day we recovered from the night with again with one of the awesome coffees. Then we took a bus (27.11.) to the pan americana highway and enjoyed gorgeous views over the mountains. At the highway we flagged down a bus and drove to Liberia to change bus again for Playa De Coco - beach time again :P

Glimpse of blue sky through the cloud forest

Rays of sunlight shine through the forest

enlightened :P

small snake in position to sntach prey at night

weird insects looking like leaves^^

view over the mountains from the bus departing Monteverde

5) San Jose

The next morning (24.11.) we took the 1pm bus from Puerto Viejo to San Jose - Costa Rica's capital. San Jose is located in the central highlands of Costa Rica. Our bus reached a bus terminal north west from the center. A short taxi ride brought us to Costa Rica Guesthouse - a huge and pleasant house in colonial style and looks like it has been an office house before. The sun was setting when we left to visit the city center. We quickly reached the shopping streets in the center that offered the usual American and European brands. Especially American fast food chains. Almost bizarre were the exaggerated Christmas decorations - even at evening in the highlands temperatures were above 20°C. Interestingly, the police used high seats to overview the streets. We then reached the Teatro Nacional - the most famous building in San Jose. Indeed, it is the finest piece of architecture in the city. Though, it is not too difficult to shine above the rest in this case. We finished our day with dinner at Nuestra Tierra (pricey, but tasty) near our Guesthouse, when a Costa Rican gentleman sang some songs for us :)
The next day we explored San Jose during daylight. San Jose has plenty tiny parks around the city center and you find street art around every corner. We liked that :)
All in all the city center is not too big and has not too much to offer. Staying one day was sufficient to us. We continued to Monte Verde / Santa Elena with an afternoon bus from the same bus station we entered the city.

Franzi in front of Teatro Nacional

San Jose is located in the hills

Street art all around the city...

...gives a nice feeling :)

4) Puerto Viejo and Cahuita

From Bocas del Toro we booked transport towards Puerto Viejo in Costa Rica. Some queuing at the Panamanian emigration office to leave the country, paying some absurd fee to pass a bridge that wasn't repaired for ages. Seriously, this bridge is dangerous! It isn't its height but the unstable walkway. When walking on the instable wooden parts your are safest as the wood crumbles from small cracks before breaking... but on the side you have metal walkways which are eroded. They suddenly can break beneath your food... so be careful ;) A funny American helped us get past the long queue at the Costa Rican border. Just pretend to be a group and that there is some sort of privileged service for groups... that surely saved us an hour of waiting^^
We arrived in Puerto Viejo and stayed at Pagalu Hostel - another German owned one :). The hostel was great, best we've seen in town! After some relaxing on the bed we rented bicycles to see the beach. A charming spot :) At the evening we ate at Flip Flop restaurant - another German owned place as we were to find out the next day^^ Delicious food and good prices!
The next day we took the bus to Cahuita and visited the national park. It is a great park located directly at the coast. Absolutely easy to walk and you quickly are lucky to see animals like the sloth :) That one quickly became one of Franzi's favorite animals^^ As easy as the park is to walk, don't forget your mosquito repellent! While Franzi went to buy some Mosquito repellent I had a funny encounter with a raccoon. Some Cappuchin monkeys later we saw the first sloth. Later in the park another - lucky us :) We also went for a swim towards the end of the path. At the end we saw the tourist police relaxing on a palm tree - she couldn't resist to take a picture with them^^ As the park was about to close, some of the wardens picked us up with their car and drove us to the exit - friendly :)
Back in Puerto Viejo they were having a fest. Everyone was on the streets, especially many people came with their horses. We were explained that this was some special festival. We joined the salsa-party later :P

border crossing Panama to Costa Rica

Beach at Puerto Viejo

First sloth we saw at Cahuita National Park

cute :)

A raccoon recklessly stealing food :P

The next sloth - Oi! don't you wake me!

A huge lizard

beautiful Cahuita National Park

meeting of hermit crabs on a coconut

who is first to have a meal? :D

Franzi with the tourist police

Sunset at Puerto Viejo

People come out for the fest